Well, we finally made it back to Kathmandu. I still have all ten fingers and toes. We did it, we successfully summitted Ama Dablam at 6812m. I am so proud that I got to the top, it was an intimidating difficult mountain, and it took every bit of strength and determination to get there. I could not send a blog any earlier as technology is pretty limited and unreliable in the Himalaya’s.
The Final Push
We reached the summit at 11.23 on the 5th of November, having left from Camp 3 at 6.00am. I got to the top and cried, all the hard work had paid off, and now I had shown that I was capable of tackling the technical mountains, and succeeding. I would have never thought that just a year ago, when I was still battling cancer, that I would soon be standing on top of one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
Hard Work
The expedition was so well planned. Sumit, our guide and friend, had made sure that everything from the staff, food to the tents and equipment was totally first class. We even had a shower tent, which heated up in the day, and you could take in a 20 litre bucket of hot water, and feel a bit of luxury.
The climb itself was intense and physically demanding. It took almost two weeks of climbing and returning to base camp to acclimatise and be in a position where we were ready to challenge the summit.
We climbed from Base Camp at 4600m to Camp 1 at 5800m, a massive height gain at altitude, 3 times and also once to Camp 2 at 6000m, before we headed down for some rest and recovery
My favourite part of the climb was between Camp 1 and 2, which only has a gain of 200m, but is all rock climbing and traversing. The exposure was seriously intense and the final section, referred to as the Yellow Tower tests the nerve of the most experienced climber. It is a shear vertical rock face, with little foot holds, and just to make it interesting, drops 600m below you. Don’t look down is the best advice.
Camp 2 to 3 was also amazing. The Grey Tower, also rock climbing, was a little precarious at times, with large pieces of rock hurtling down the mountain. When you hear the word ‘rock’, it is time to tuck in close to the face, as you hear the missiles shoot past. Pretty unnerving at times, but we got through. At the top of the tower, you reach Mushroom ridge, which is a narrow snow line ridge, which drops sharply over 1000m on both sides, the views were just stunning, and I wanted to sit here forever, and take in the beauty.
Camp 3 was on the lower Dablam and we camped on the snow. It was a cold night before our summit push, and got to -20 degrees inside the tent. Leaving in the extreme cold was tough, and my hands and feet, as per usual, did not warm up. This took my mind off the tough snow climb for a while, then I refocussed and put my mind on the job. We climbed for 4 ½ hours and I could finally see the summit in sight. Taking those final steps to be on top was the proudest moment of my life, and it all became too much, and my emotions ran away. Allan was waiting for me and we held each other tightly and silently celebrated. Allan told me he loved me and was so proud of what I had done and that I was super woman. He is biased of course. I just savoured the time at the top, and looked across to Mt Everest and Cho Oyu and got excited that these mountains were still to come.
We eventually headed back down to Base Camp the following day and arrived in the night after 13 hours of abseiling, traversing and walking down. I was shagged but still on cloud nine.
The Amazing Lakpa
Throughout the climb, I was with Lakpa Sherpa, a wonderful beautiful man, who has climbed Ama Dablam 17 times now, and just returned from guiding our friend Pat on Cho Oyu. Lakpa never left my side, he was my shadow, and will be with me on Cho Oyu and Everest. I am so lucky, and feel safe around him on the mountain, he is so calm and experienced. I can’t wait to see him again.
Tragedy up High
We met some amazing people along the way. At Base Camp, we spent time and had dinner with Lydia Bradey from NZ, who was the 1st woman in the world to solo Mt Everest without oxygen. She was such a wonderful inspiring woman and we spoke about my future climbs. Lydia guides on Mt Cook and we will probably try and climb with her next year. She climbed Ama Dablam with her friend David, an orthopaedic surgeon from Dunedin.
As it turned out, it was lucky David was on the mountain. While we were returning to Camp 1 from Camp 2, we saw a climber, who appeared to be not moving up on the summit ridge. Sumit made a call to Base Camp to see whether any information had been received or whether this climbers predicament had been noticed and plans being made for his rescue. As it turned out, he was an Austrian mountain paramedic/guide, and had developed HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Odema) whilst climbing with his friend, and had become totally irrational.
His friend, also a guide, left him on the mountain, and climbed back down, but without a radio, was unable to alert anyone of the situation. Due to the time, being late in the day, and the location where he was at, rescue at this time was impossible. It was so sad to see a man left on the mountain, and as the sun went down, I think everyone thought the same thing, that he would not last the night. A team of Sherpas and Adrian, an American guide from Alpen Glow, were to leave in the morning to get to the climber.
We spent the night at Camp 1, and his other friends who were in a tent beside us, were up all night crying and fearing the worst. In the morning, I looked out of the tent, and could not believe my eyes. He was moving, he had started to head slowly down the mountain, it was truly a miracle. It ended up taking 2 days for the rescue team, including Jangbu from our team, to get him down the mountain. It was so sad to see him back at Base Camp, and David, who had been co-ordinating with Adrian, on dosages of medication, including dexymethamphetamine, gave him a big hug. It was very emotional, and really reinforced the dangers of the mountain. In the end, a helicopter arrived and flew him back to Kathmandu. He lost both his hands and had damage to his feet from frost bite.
Friends you Meet
Along the trail, we also met two exceptional men, Irwin, a pilot with Emirates, and Mark, a dentist in NZ. They were undertaking their own climbing adventure, and we spent many great evenings laughing and chatting in warm dining rooms. They were great company and will be friends forever.
Nepal – A Magical Place
The people living in the Himalayas were wonderful, and the service and hospitality we received was heart warming. We have had the best time, and it truly has not sunk in yet that I climbed such a majestic yet difficult mountain, where experienced climbers from around the world come to test their skills. I will fondly think back on this expedition forever, and remember that indescribable feeling of elation and self-satisfaction at standing on top of this beautiful mountain. Achieving this dream has given me strength and further belief in myself that I can do this, and has only made me more excited about what is to come. I am already counting down the days to Cho Oyu.
Reflection
Battling breast cancer was a terrifying period of my life, where everything was out of control, and my destiny was placed in the hands of experts around me. I look at it now as a turning point in my life, a positive experience that has taught me what is important and given me insight and direction. It is certainly not the way I wanted to rethink my life plan, but those were the cards I was dealt, and I have to deal with it the best way I can. I still think about cancer and that it may return one day, and that scares me, but at the same time, drives me to do as many things as I can, whilst I can. I love what I am doing, I love my friends and family, I love life, and in some way, truly hope that I am able to give some inspiration to the people still fighting this horrible disease.
Take care and will blog soon
Sharon
x
P.s Pictures to follow shortly.