Firstly, we would like to express our sincere condolences to the families and friends who lost loved ones in the tragedy of the Agni Airlines crash in Nepal on the 24th of August 2010. We only heard of the news whilst up in the mountains, through the Sherpa grapevine, and due to the isolation and no access to communications, we couldn’t get any accurate details, apart from the fact that no one had survived. I cannot explain the sadness I felt, knowing that 14 people had lost their lives either trying to get home or fulfil their dreams visiting a land of extraordinary beauty and spirituality.
What a trip
We arrived safely back in Kathmandu yesterday, after managing to get the first flight out of Lukla, whilst the clouds lifted. We had an amazing trip, full of adventure, sadness and joy.
After a slow start, spending four boring yet interesting days in Kathmandu Airport, unable to get into Lukla due to bad weather, we managed to secure a seat on a helicopter, which was heading up into the Himalaya’s to collect some stranded trekkers from a village near Lukla. The flight was quite an incredible experience, and we captured some amazing views of the valley, mountains and surging river.
We struck bad weather and clouds about half an hour from Surke, our intended destination and were forced to land in an open field perched high on a ridgeline. To our amazement, a tribe of excited school kids who heard the chopper, made there way to our landing pad. It was a fantastic sight, with at least 100 smiling faces beaming at the four occupants of the strange flying craft. We jumped out and took photos and mixed with the locals, waiting for the weather to improve. It was a moment I will never forget.
Once the weather settled, we managed to get underway again, and taking off was a beautiful sight, with a sea of waving hands bidding us farewell.
The Trek
We landed in Surke and caught up with Mingma Sherpa, who was to accompany us up to Gokyo. He was so excited and big hugs were exchanged, even with Thommo, who he had never met before, and we commenced our journey.
The beauty of trekking during the monsoon season is the complete isolation. It feels like you have the entire area to yourself. We saw only two other trekkers the entire time, due to flights not being able to get into Lukla. The downside, of course, is the constant rain and limited views of the mountains, enveloped in cloud. I couldn’t help think that Thommo believed that Everest and the other Himalayan giants were only a figment of our imagination.
Birthday Gift
We decided to climb Gokyo Ri (5360m) on the 26th of August. To my astonishment, the clouds lifted for the first time, presenting us with clear views of Everest and Cho Oyu. It was such a special moment, and Al, Thommo, Mingma and I spent a few hours taking in the panorama. It was a great opportunity to get in some acclimatization, while contemplating our next challenge, which sat ominously in front of us.
Allan surprised me with some local jewellery which he gave me on the summit, and arranged for a cake for when we got back into Gokyo. It was the best birthday ever, with breathtaking views and great company. We even took prayer flags and juniper with us, and had a small Puja ceremony in honour of our boy Bear.
The return flight
I must admit that I was pretty anxious as we took off into the hills from Lukla, particularly in light of what had just occurred. This is the only part I don’t like about the Himalaya’s, and the chants of the Buddhist monk sitting behind me gave me some comfort. We finally touched down safely, and felt relieved that we were safe.
Overall, it was a beautiful trip, and we got in some final acclimatization and pack walking before our expedition. Thommo was an awesome travelling companion, and he had an amazing experience. He loved joking with the Sherpa people, and had great fun with Mingma, who took an instant liking to him.
We put in some big days, walking for up to 10 hours, and Thommo was always up to the challenge, despite an old niggling knee injury. We met some beautiful friendly people, and had time to reflect on life, loved ones and of course our next phase, taking on Cho Oyu.
Speak soon
Sharon
The tragedy of life is not death, but what we let die inside of us while we live. – Norman Cousins
























